Manual Made in Sicily

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Whereas in the simplicity of the savory cooking there is always a sense of harking back to cucina povera — literally the cooking of poverty, when whatever ingredients you had needed to be used cleverly — when it comes to the pastry, no! Everyone goes crazy. On that note, it seems as good a time as any to offer up Locatelli's limoncello gelato recipe, with the caveat that the Sicilian gusto for desserts seems evident in those metric-system conversions as well the book was first published in the U.

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Based on scanning the quantity of ingredients, surely the recipe yields two pints, not two gallons? Not that we'd mind a couple of post-dinner gallons. Note: Locatelli prefers to use dextrose glucose in ice cream rather than table sugar, because he says dextrose has a less sweet flavor that allows the natural flavors to come through dextrose is available at many health food shops and online.

He says the invert sugar eliminates the hard crystals that often form when table sugar is frozen.


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If you don't want to use the invert sugar, you can substitute regular table sugar. Hand blend the milk, cream, milk powder and dextrose until smooth, then put into a pan and bring to F. Whisk in the sugars and the egg yolks.

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Bring up to F, take off the heat, then cool as quickly as you can and put into the fridge, so you don't encourage bacteria. When cold, mix in the limoncello and lemon juice. Put into the fridge for 6 to 12 hours. Put the mixture into an ice cream maker and churn according to instructions.

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MADE IN SICILY

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